WendyIrvin
128 post s
1-May-2008
4:31 PM
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Hi! I have a medium skinned African American woman coming in for eyebrows next week and I'd love to get some advice from you LI pigment users. I believe she's a Fitz V, and she currently wears her brows brown and soft - not black. So I'm aiming for a neutral/warm medium brown for her skin. My plan is to use Latte (edges only), Hazelnut and Cocoa. I may warm up the Cocoa with just a bit of Caribbean Modifier. What do you guys think? I know these colors are fairly light for darker skin, but I'm trying to keep in mind that hyper pigmentation will make them darker... Thanks!
Wendy
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Ms. M
73 post s
1-May-2008
5:13 PM
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Wendy, we all have our own techniques for color and actually all skin types, but I'll give you my personal take on Fiz 5 and 6. What these skin types do with color is rather unpredictable. I have used L/I Hazelnut on a Fitz 5 and you would have thought I used Cocoa. Here's my plan. The first application of pigment should be as pure one or possibily two colors mixed as possible. Generally I would say from your description L/I Cocoa and if she has any cool tendencies, I'd put a couple of drops of un-gray in the Cocoa as a bit of insurance. Once the brows have healed, her skin and the color used as it appears healed will give you guidance as to what to do on the followup visit. I'm not much of a mixer on the first application with any skin type. If it comes back differently than desired, and I had mixed a lot of different colors, just which one of those colors was responsibile for what I and/or the client doesn't like about the outcome? I realize others may not share my conservative approach to color but that's my style. Without a picture and more information about the client's desired outcome that's about all I can offer.
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Brandy
462 post s
1-May-2008
8:42 PM
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Hi Wendy,if my memeory serves me (oh heck, who am I kidding) anyway I think Cocoa has a cool base. I would probably go with Cappucino. And I agree with Ms M, on the first go round use only one color with maybe a bit of modifier because if she comes back too ashy, you won't know which color is responsible. Remember you can always get funky on the next visit.
If she's a Fitz V, you'll probably end up using some Espresso on follow up visit.
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Ms. M
74 post s
1-May-2008
8:55 PM
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Brandy, unless I'm greatly mistaken, Espresso is very very cool (cooler than cocoa) so if I were to "season" with anything, it would likely be Ebony Brown I would add a bit to for darkening which has more yellow. I'm glad you agree to keep the first application simple. As always, I await Liza's input. Of course what we are missing is "a picture." Without that, I at least am pretty much guessing from the description of a Fitz 5.
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Brandy
463 post s
1-May-2008
9:36 PM
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Sorry, I meant to say Espresso with either un-grey or Carribean mod added. I'm just so used to warming these pigments up as needed I assume everyone else does too.
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LiZa
2833 post s
2-May-2008
7:16 AM
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naturally we warm the brows if need be. LI primarily produces green to yellow based brow colors.
I've never had much luck with the lighter colors on black skin and i usually work with ebony brown. but if you think that's too dark, i would suggest doing just what brandy does and use a little un-grey with your espresso.
all good info girls, interesting how we use different means to arrive at pert-near the same result. missM and I were talking about that very thing the other day. Black skin will usually fit into 3 categories. skin looks almost blue (very black). skin looks green yellow (olive) or cafe au lait (seemingly yellow) One thing for sure, across the board--never predict any warmth to be offered by the skin, it will never happen.
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WendyIrvin
129 post s
5-May-2008
5:37 AM
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Thank you all for the very helpful information! I will definitely start off keeping it simple and only using one color. And yes, I am for sure going to add a modifier to warm the color up some. Sorry there is no picture included. We've had the consult, but I normally don't take any pictures until procedure day. Thanks again! Now I feel like I have a better prepared game plan.
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